Sunday, September 23, 2012

0 Save 30% on Jared Polin’s Top Quality Photography Training

People often mention to me that they feel as though they’re not making the most from their dSLR cameras. They know their camera has potential for taking amazing shots but are not quite sure how get control over it.

Our Photo Nuts series of eBooks are in part designed to help change that, however I realise that eBooks are not a format everyone enjoys.  This week I came across a product that just might help you unlock the power of your dSLR – particularly if videos are more your thing.  

Many regular dPS readers will know Jared Polin (AKA FroKnowsPhoto… the guy who always wears the ‘I Shoot RAW’ tshirts) because we’ve featured his videos here on the site before. We featuring him because the comments we get from readers are that they not only learn a lot from him but that he teaches in a fun and relatable way.

Jared has just released a 3-hour video guide designed specifically to help you get out of auto mode. I’ve spent some time going through it in the last few days and it is really good.

Best of all – as a launch special Jared is currently offering a 30% discount on it.

Right now you can own this course for just $67 (regular price is $97).  The course is instantly downloadable once you order and it’s really good (both content but also the quality of the video).

Check it out here.

Jared’s put together a short video (below) to let you know more about the course. Or you can skip the video and head over to FroKnowsPhoto and grab yourself a copy.


View the original article here

0 Benefit From How You See The World

A Guest Post by Ben Evans from www.EnglishPhotographer.com.

Discover The Value Of Your Own Mind For Better Composition in Photography

Can you accurately picture your own face without looking in a mirror? How about remembering a loved one? Do photographs show us the same pictures we hold dearly in our mind? Can they even do so at all?

Photo-1.jpg

These questions are rhetorical; the answer is, ‘no.’ But why not?

You’ve probably had the experience of being unable to express the magnificence of a scene in a photograph no matter which camera you use or whatever techniques you try.

In many cases, learning new techniques helps us. Sunsets not looking fiery orange and red in the pictures? Set your white balance to the ‘Sunny’ preset. Unsightly shadows at midday? Move your subject to the open shade. But sometimes we need to go deeper and understand what’s going on.

I had a breakthrough a couple of days ago teaching photography to a private client in Barcelona. It’s changed the way I photograph, and I’m going to share it with you in this article.

Photo-2.jpg

We get about 80% of our impressions about the world through our eyes. Since they’re open for about 18 hours a day, that’s a lot of information coming in!

So much in fact that the mind has to filter out most of what our eyes look at. This job is done by the Reticular Activating System, or RAS.

I’m going to take enormous liberties with the actual biology of the RAS. Sorry scientists; I’m claiming artistic licence

Your RAS has three three main methods to filter what your eyes see to create your uniquely subjective view of the world:

This is very common, and gets more effective with age. For example, we see many strangers every day but rarely take a moment to see them as individuals; they are just a part of the crowd. This process of generalisation is why children can stare completely entranced by something that an adult will walk past without a second (or first!) glance.

Have you ever noticed how if you’re watching a really good film you might not notice anything else in the cinema for hours? Or if you’re having a deep conversation with someone you really care about everything else apart from them seems to disappear? The mind is great at focussing our attention on something that’s important to us and making it really stand out. A pilot friend of mine compares this to the way that radio traffic that mentions his aircraft seems to stand out vibrantly from the other chatter.

Of course with so much information flooding in through the eyes and only a limited capacity to process it, a large amount of what we see is simply cut out before it reaches our conscious awareness. If you’re in the car or on a train for example, a lot of the scenery that flashes past is lost. Looking at the world, we tend to ignore a lot of the clutter that surrounds us, especially if it has no obvious value or lacks contrast.

How does the mind choose what to focus on and what to pass by? Well a lot depends on our beliefs and past experiences.

I have a friend who believes that the world is an amazing place and everyone is inherently good. His Reticular Activating System concentrates on the positives and ignores the negatives.

His perception of the world is quite different from a pessimist’s. It is almost as if he doesn’t see bad reactions; if a waitress is rude to him, he either won’t notice or just assumes she’s having a hard day.

Psychologists call this Confirmation Bias; we tend to see what agrees with our preconceptions and disregard anything that challenges them.

What can we learn from this? Two things. Firstly, beliefs and experiences change how you see the world. This is the secret to the elusive ‘artistic eye’, and is how we can effectively teach ‘Art’ with Holistic Photography.

Secondly, and what we’re focussing on here, is how the RAS changes our perception of the world in a way that we can learn from and apply to our photography.

On my courses, I teach that the most important thing in photography is to have clear idea of what you’re photographing.

This may be concrete; in which you’re trying to preserve a specific object or a scene. Or it might be more abstract, when you want to express a thought or feeling.

What you look for is what you will see. If I’m driving then signposts will stand out to me. But if I’m photographing a picturesque town, they’ll probably fade into the background.

The camera is far more objective. It provides a level of realism that previously would have been unimaginable, but it lacks an RAS to highlight our intended subject and filter out distractions.

To reach another level in our photography, we can consciously act as the camera’s RAS. This means filtering the world so that our subject stands out in the photograph.

How do we do this? By using the same three principles that the RAS uses to filter information;

Understand what you want your photograph to communicate. Use symbols. People will see a policeman, not the individual wearing the uniform. They can see warm colours and assume that it’s a warm day. Try and make the elements in your photograph stand for something. And keep it simple. Gestalt aesthetics notices several effects we can use; like objects that are close together seem to be a group, or a few objects in a row can create a line.

Photo-3.jpg

One of the most common flaws I see in photographs is no clear subject. It might be somewhere in the frame, but it just doesn’t stand out in the final photograph. Fortunately, there are several tricks in aesthetics that we can use to draw attention to our intended subject.

a. The first trick takes advantage of the RAS’ tendency to notice Contrast. Colour Contrast may have helped our ancestors avoid tigers in the jungle once, but now it’s the theoretical basis for including someone wearing red in a green landscape. Or photographing yellow flowers against a blue background.

Photo-4.jpg

You can also create Tonal Contrast; have your subject in the direct sunlight against a shaded background or vice versa; make sure to adjust your exposure so your subject looks good – don’t worry if the background is completely black or white.

b. Fill the frame. It’s a very common piece of advice, but why does it work? Simply, if your subject fills the frame then it will dominate the picture. It’s often better to use a wide-angle lens and get closer because the perspective will make the viewer seem more engaged with the scene.

You may have noticed that a good photograph can be completely ruined by anything that distracts from the subject. Again, contrast matters; so white vans in an otherwise dark background or areas of bright sky can distract your viewer’s attention.

a. I grew up in the English countryside and one of my earliest memories was my mother picking up litter that people had dropped. No-one wants a crisp packet in a landscape nor a plastic bottle on a monument. Sure, you can Photoshop them out, but airbrushing can take time to get right. If there is litter in your scene, put it in the bin; you’ll be doing everyone a favour.

b. Suppose that the distraction is a crowd or a car – what then? Well if the photograph is worth it, you can wait until they move or come back later. But if time is a factor, you can hide potential distractions behind something else; or just adjust your position until they’re outside the frame.

Photo-5.jpg

So that’s it! Three things to practice that will improve your photography. The best way to get the most out of them is to focus on each one for a few days so that your mind becomes used to performing them. Let me know how you get on.

Photo-6.jpg

Ben teaches photography classes in Barcelona with www.BarcelonaPhotographyCourses.com and keeps a photoblog of ‘fine art street’ photos of Barcelona at www.i-Barcelona.com. He photographs internationally with www.EnglishPhotographer.com. Ben is working on two photography teaching projects, Better Than 90 Percent and Holistic Photography. He shoots Nikon, Hasselblad, Apple (iPad 3) and those little throwaway waterproof film cameras with the plastic lenses.

This post was written by a guest contributor to DPS. Please see their details in the post above. Become a Contributor: Check out Write for DPS page for details about how YOU can share your photography tips with the DPS community.


View the original article here

0 Portrait of Two People: Weekly Photography Challenge

This week your photographic challenge is to take and share a portrait of two people.

OFF WITH YOUR HEADS!!

This is a followup to our recent post – how to take creative couples portraits – although you’re more than welcome to share two people that are not a ‘couple’ as such if you wish.

It could be a couple but it could also be two siblings, a parent and child, two workmates, two strangers… whatever you like.

You’re welcome to take a posed portrait or something less formal or even a candid one. Really it’s up to you!

Once you’ve taken and selected the ‘ZOOM’ image that you’d like to share – upload it to your favourite photo sharing site or blog and either share a link to it or – embed them in the comments using our embed tool to do so.

If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites with Tagging tag them as #DPSCOUPLE to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

Also – don’t forget to check out some of the great shots posted in last weeks challenge – Zoom challenge where there were some great shots submitted.


View the original article here

0 Photographing Buildings [Composition Tips]

A Guest Post by Michael Toye

I am a firm believer, at least with photography, that what you get back is directly related to the effort you put in. As with all activities, it’s certainly not linear and I am the first to admit that you can tip the scale in your favor to achieve some great architectural images armed with only a few basic techniques.

photographing-buildings-1.jpg

For me, I think the allure of shooting buildings started as a tourist. We all do it, albeit some with less style and grace than others – yes you leaning tower of Pisa holder up’ers, I am talking about you! So there you are, standing in front of an awesome and aged icon of a building and with little thought other than fitting the structure into the LCD’s frame, you snap away. I know I did. The problem is that the hastily captured image is more than likely just going to be just that, a snap.

I have a mental checklist i go through when i pass a building that catches my eye, so the following techniques apply to all aspects of photography really but, specifically for architecture, you will see significant improvement.

photographing-buildings-2.jpg

Most of the time this question of why you are going to take a picture or rather what caught your attention will be obvious. It’s pretty simple when your building is freakishly tall, like Canary Wharf Tower in London, or a pier that stretches to the horizon which, in the UK, would be located in Southend. I know you all are thinking this is a little bit redundant, but far from it. Consciously visualizing what you thought interesting about this particular building will help you work out how to compose a shot to capitalize on that feature.

Features aside, there are a couple of basic errors to avoid; keep horizons and horizontals level, verticals vertical and ensure the image is sharp. You might disregard some or all of these, but always initially frame with these in mind because no image looks more unprofessional than a wonky or blurry one!

The most used compositional styles employed by architectural photographers will be one of the following.

photographing-buildings-3.jpg

Perspective and depth are the usual drivers for leading lines, but the more obvious definition is a scene that directs the viewer’s gaze along an intended path. The elements in the image above – escalator, grooves in the roof and wall and the ‘ladder‘ in the distance – all lead your eyes up and toward the exit. The curvature of the ‘grille‘ in the roof serves as the final area of focus. My intention with this image was for the viewer to participate in a small journey. I also chose this perspective, with the distorted view of the escalator, to provide the viewer a sense of scale; especially relevant as most will not have visited this particularly grand London Underground station.

photographing-buildings-4.jpg

This building is pretty ugly and it is closely surrounded by other non complimentary buildings… apart from this elaborate design on the front of Moorfield’s Eye Hospital. There is so much glass in the balcony and facia, the light play is amazing. Another compositional element that everyone bangs on about, and quite rightly, Rule of Thirds; the invisible tic tac toe shaped grid where you place objects of focus along its lines and intersections. Well it works! You should always consider it when framing a scene, even if you decide otherwise.

photographing-buildings-5.jpg

I love spiral staircases. They are an awesome detail in buildings and a contrast to the usual straight lines and angles found in architectural images. This one is in Queen’s House in London. There’s very little context here apart from the stair case itself. You have no idea where it is or what the rest of the building might look like.

photographing-buildings-6.jpg
These doorways connect adjoining rooms in a family dormitory. This building, amongst others, is to be found in Kolmanskop, Namibia. A long since abandoned town that served the families and workers at the local diamond mine. The sands of the Namib desert have invaded all of these houses and, along with the peeling wallpaper, frames, and faded walls contribute to a real sense of their abandonment.

photographing-buildings-7.jpg

I chose this straight down the line composition, at London’s Natural History Museum, to give a real sense of depth. The power of the image is in the symmetry and off horizontals and verticals would have a serious impact.

Oh yes, and remember to look up!

photographing-buildings-8.jpg

Michael Toye is a professional photographer, based east of London in the UK, specialising in architecture and landscape. You can follow Michael’s images on his blog or contact him on Facebook.

This post was written by a guest contributor to DPS. Please see their details in the post above. Become a Contributor: Check out Write for DPS page for details about how YOU can share your photography tips with the DPS community.


View the original article here

0 Simple Fill Flash Tips

A Guest Post by Mia Johnstone.

Learning some very simple fill flash tips will help elevate the quality of your photographs. This tutorial will teach you to fill in shadows and help create more professional looking portraits. These tips can be applied to shooting indoors with window light and can also be great for shooting outdoors in open shade (no direct sunlight).

IMG_1965.jpgYou need:

A DSLR cameraBasic working knowledge of manual modeAn off camera flash with variable light output (you can get basic ones for $100)An optional filter for your flash (softens light).

1. Have your model sit facing a window. Photographer should have the window to their back. See photo below. The whole point to fill flash is that it’s just ‘fill’. You will need a main light source. Natural light is free and readily available. See below how we set up the shot.

2. Depending on how strong the window lighting is, your ISO should be at around 100 or 200. I usually shoot at an aperture of 3 or 3.5. Then set your shutter speed appropriately, but not faster than 1/250. My settings=ISO 100, aperture 3.5, 1/125 speed.

3. Set your flash to manual mode and your variable light output to 1/34. If you are using a filter on your flash, your flash head should be at a 45 degree angle, if possible. Take a test shot. If I am only a few feet away from my subject, this is usually too bright. I love 1/64 or 1/128 light output from a flash. It gives that extra splash of light to help fill in the shadows.

Metered for natural light. Added fill flash at 1/64 power. A balanced image.

No flash. Dark shadows around nose and eye.

flash at 1/32 power. A little too bright

Flash at 1/32 power. A little too bright.

Taking a good portrait is very simple. The portrait above with no flash isn’t a bad image. But when you add some flash, it gives the model and photo a whole new dimension. You can use these simple tips when you take wedding photographs, at the beach on cloudy days, or when you just want to give your photos some extra life.

Mia Johnstone is a professional photographer in Los Angeles. Read about her love of photography at www.mialovesphotography.com

This post was written by a guest contributor to DPS. Please see their details in the post above. Become a Contributor: Check out Write for DPS page for details about how YOU can share your photography tips with the DPS community.


View the original article here

Wednesday, August 8, 2012

0 Turn Off VR (or IS) When Shooting Sports

Tips how to shoot sport photos
Computational Photography



If you want sharper sports photos, and you have lenses that use VR (Vibration Reduction
on Nikons) or IS (Image Stabilization on Canons), you should turn this off. There are two
important reasons why: (1) the VR (or IS) slows down the speed of the autofocus, so it can
stabilize the image, and (2) since you’ll be shooting at fast shutter speeds (hopefully
at 1⁄ 1000 of a second or higher), you don’t get any benefit from VR (or IS), which is designed
to help you in low-light, slow shutter speed situations. In fact, it works against you, because
the VR (or IS) system is searching for vibration and that can cause slight movement.
Normally, that wouldn’t be a problem, because you want VR (or IS) to do its thing in low
light, but in brighter light (and faster shutter speeds), this movement can make things
less sharp than they could be, so make sure you turn VR (or IS) off.

Monday, August 6, 2012

3 Why zooming on your DSLR is different and how to use autofocus for shooting video

Computational Photography

When you zoom in/out on a traditional video camera, the zoom is very smooth because
it’s controlled by an internal motor—you just push a button and it smoothly zooms in
or out, giving a nice professional look. The problem is that there’s no internal motor on
your DSLR—you have to zoom by hand, and if you’re not really smooth with it, and really
careful while you zoom, you’re going to wind up with some really choppy looking zooms.
In fact, since it’s so tough to get that power-zoom quality like we’re used to with regular
video cameras, there are a bunch of companies that make accessories so you can make it
look like you used a power zoom, like the Nano focus+zoom lever from RedRock Micro.
It’s two pieces (sold separately, of course, because this is video gear and therefore a
license to print money), but luckily, neither is too expensive. First, you need the focus
gear, which is sized to fit your particular zoom lens, and that runs around $45, but that’s
just for focusing (very nice to have, by the way), but then you add this zoom handle to it,
for another $35 or so (also worth it), so you’re into both for only around $80, but it sure
makes zooming smoothly a whole lot easier.

Computational Photography


As you’ve probably learned, many DSLR cameras don’t autofocus when you’re shooting
DSLR video, so then it’s a manual thing, but that doesn’t mean you can’t use Autofocus
to help you out. The trick is to use Autofocus before you start shooting, so basically, you
turn on Live View mode, but don’t start recording yet—instead, aim your camera at your
subject, press the shutter button down halfway to lock the focus, then move the Auto-
focus switch on the barrel of your lens over to “M” (Manual) mode, and you’re all set. Now,
the only downside is if your subject moves to a new location (even if it’s two feet away), you
have to do this process again (luckily, it only takes a few seconds each time you do it, and
you get pretty quick at it pretty quickly).

 

Computational photography Copyright © 2011 - |- Template created by O Pregador - |- Powered by Blogger Templates